Answers to some of the most frequent questions asked about underwater photography such as:
What Camera do I buy?
Do I focus for how close the fish looks or.....?
What is Depth of Field?
Where do I point my strobe?
What is, and how do you do, a Macro?
How do I get my model to pose just right?
What do I do?... My Camera has flooded!!!
I use all the right gear, yet my pictures still suck!.... What can I do?
What Camera do I buy?
by Ann Storrie
Wow..this is the ultimate difficult question! Basically your choices are either;
110 or 126 format Cameras,
Compact cameras using cartridge films.
35mm Cameras
A Viewfinder system, eg Nikonos (except the RS), Sea & Sea Motormarine II etc.
An SLR (Single Lens Reflex) camera in a waterproof housing.
An underwater SLR - the Nikonos RS.
Problems with Viewfinder systems are:
a) Parallax error, what you see in the viewfinder is not exactly what you always get, it will be slightly offset and you must learn to compensate for this.
b) There is no reflex focusing, therefore all distances must be guessed.
Problems or disadvantages of housed systems:
a) Housings still generally bulky and heavy compared to a Nikonos or Sea&Sea type camera.
b) If not auto focus camera, difficult to take macros.
c) Generally overall cost is more.
Advantages of housed SLRs over viewfinder cameras:
a) TTL viewing.
b) Exact Composition, What you see is what you get.
c) Auto focus is possible.
d) Zoom lenses allow for an infinite range of subject sizes and distances.
Do I focus for how close the fish looks or?...
by Glen Cowans
Objects appear much closer and larger in water than they do in air, actually it is 33% larger and 25% closer. When focusing your camera, the lens works the same as your eye, so you must focus for what the distance "appears" to be. That is if you actually measured the distance between the subject and your lens, you would be focusing 25% (1/4) closer than the measured distance.
What is Depth of Field?
by Glen Cowans
This is the actual range that an object focused upon appears sharp. It is dependent on the size of the aperture used. The smaller the aperture (eg; f22), the greater distance in front of and behind the subject that will be in focus. A large aperture (say f5.6) results in a very narrow depth of field, that is, only the subject or part of it, will be in focus. This can be used to give a background that is blurred, thus providing emphasis only on the subject photographed.
Where do I point my strobe?
by Margy Nicholas
The most generally accepted position for taking underwater photographs is to have the strobe on the left hand side of the camera and having the light illuminating the subject from about a 45° downward angle but because of this position, the flash usually lights up any suspended particles in the water and this will detract from an otherwise acceptable photograph. Two ways to overcome it are;
Either shoot directly at the reef scene and lose the backscatter (and probably the subject) in the background.
Keep low and shoot upwards but instead of having the flash pointing down, hold it low and pointing upwards towards the subject, the result will be well balanced lighting with a blue background and any backscatter will be lost in the foreground. Even in the most turbid water the results can be surprising.
What is, and how do you do, a Macro shot?
by Peter Nicholas
Macro photography is probably the way most of us start out. Because it is easier to approach the subjects, the camera is a lot more simple to use and we get quick results. But a lot of photographers still treat a macro the same way most people take shots of kids, that is at a downward angle. This results in a good record of the subject but a flat and uninteresting picture. To overcome this get as low as is possible and shoot from either side on or at least at a 45° angle which will give it a more three dimensional perspective.
How do I get my model to pose "just right"?
by Peter Nicholas
Any successful wide angle shots that incorporate a diver will only work if the model is aware of what is expected of them. This is usually achieved by planning the dive/shot before getting in the water. One tip is for the model to use the reflection in the dome port of the wide angle to help position themselves in accordance to the foreground subject that the photographer is shooting. The model can see themselves, so he/she can compose their position so as to make the shot work. This is especially true when using a modelling light, you can see the reflected light beam coming back at you when it is pointing at the photographer.
What do I do?... My Camera has flooded!!!
by Ann Storrie
For A MAJOR FLOOD
Remove the batteries immediately to avoid explosive gas build-up from the shorting batteries and to prevent further circuit board damage.
Remove the sea water as soon as possible, rinse thoroughly in fresh water, if close to a repairer, leave the unit immersed in fresh water, if possible dismantle lenses etc to allow fresh water to penetrate as much as possible. If item cannot be left in fresh water, dry thoroughly and get to a repairer as soon as possible.
For A LESSER FLOOD
Remove batteries and remove lens if unaffected.
Check body, if circuit board has not suffered water damage, DO NOT WET IT FURTHER.
If only a drop of water has entered, wipe out with lens tissue, dry unit thoroughly and do not test again until completely dry. Be extremely careful of the delicate shutter mechanisms
Have unit serviced.
I use all the right gear, yet my pictures still suck!... What can I do?
by Glen Cowans
That's easy!!!!! Join W.A.U.P.S. with so many photographers around, good ideas and helpful information is always at hand. Also, a big bonus!! you get to realise that even the people with the best gear, the ones who get the REALLY good shots, do also take photos that suck, they just try not to let other people see them, that's all :-)
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